What are essential oils? Are they really ‘essential’?

Essential oils are extracts taken from plants. They’re usually made from plant leaves, flowers, fruits, twigs, seeds, etc. Now, the word ‘essential’ means extremely important or absolutely necessary. ‘Essential oils,’ however, are anything but essential.

The truth is that none of the oils classified as essential oils is necessary for your tattoo or your skin. They’re called ‘essential’ because the oil literally represents the essence of the plant it was derived from. So, lavender essential oil literally translates to lavender oil essence.

A few differences…

There are many different types of essential oils with their own health claims. Each come with their own unique scent as well. To date, there are literally hundreds of essential oils sold on the market.

However, take note that these oils aren’t created equal at all. They’ll obviously inherit properties from the plants they were extracted from. So, if you’re allergic or sensitive to any of the original source plants, then chances are, you may also be allergic to their essence, a.k.a. essential oil.

Should you dilute essential oils or not?

Some oils must be diluted first before topical application. These include strong oils like citronella, lemongrass, cumin, clove bud, oregano, and thyme. On the other hand, chamomile, eucalyptus, lavender, rose, and tea tree may be used without dilution and may be applied directly to skin.

The bad news is that not all ‘experts’ agree with this assumption. Some ‘experts’ categorically say all essential oils must be diluted first (usually with a carrier oil like olive oil or coconut oil) before application. This is truly one of the downsides of using essential oils – it’s hard to tell what’s right and what’s wrong when the industry is largely unregulated.

However, when it comes to tattooed skin, we recommend diluting the essential oil first with either a moisturising cream, lotion, or suitable carrier oil. This is because essential oils are highly concentrated and have no lipids in them, so they can evaporate rather quickly. By mixing the essential oil with a good carrier, it stays on the skin longer and thus moisturise for longer, too.

For tattoo use, the best carrier oils would be coconut oil and cocoa butter as these two are powerful skin moisturisers in their own right.

How essential oils are extracted

There are many different ways oils are extracted, such as steam distillation, cold pressing, solvent extraction, wax embedding, and resin tapping. Here’s a video showing the science behind two of the most popular extraction methods:

Essential oils ‘safe’ for use on tattoos and their benefits

The essential oils listed here are but a few oils that are supposedly ‘safe’ for use on tattoos. It’s by no means a comprehensive list. And due to the nature of essential oils (and the carrier oils mixed with them), we can’t guarantee you’re not going to get any sort of adverse reaction if applied topically to tattooed skin.  

Disclaimer: Before using any of these suggested essential oils on your tattoo, consult with a medical professional first.

• Myrrh

This essential oil has an earthy scent and is brownish in colour. Its potential health benefits include the ability to kill harmful bacteria, and heal skin wounds and sores. It also supposedly works to reduce pain and swelling.

If you’re wondering if this oil will protect you from the sun, here’s an interesting study. Apparently, when diluted with SPF15 sunscreen, this 2-in-1 myrrh & sunscreen combo was significantly more effective than either myrrh oil or sunscreen alone.

• Frankincense

Commonly used in aromatherapy, frankincense essential oil also has skin healing and strengthening properties. It supposedly helps tone and tighten skin, reduce the appearance of scars (and scabs), and heals superficial skin wounds (like tattoos). Note, however, that frankincense is best used on fully healed tattoos as some people say it may draw out some ink.

• Helichrysum

Extracted from the yellow blossoms of the ‘everlasting’ or ‘immortal’ sunflower, this essential oil is supposedly antibacterial. It’s also said to have skin regenerative properties that promote healthy skin growth – perfect for skin that just got punctured a few thousand times courtesy of tattoo needles.

• Lavender

Lavender is probably one of the most popular essential oils used in aromatherapy. It does not only smell heavenly, but it also has a host of surprising benefits when used on tattooed skin. For instance, this oil has antiseptic properties. So, you can use this to treat minor skin irritations, and give your inked skin a nice boost!

• Basil

Basil essential oil is a popular ingredient in many recipes, but it is also supposedly well-known for treating acne and other skin infections. But if you have an infected tattoo, I don’t recommend you put any essential oil on it. Instead, seek medical advice from your GP.

• Avocado

Avocado is one healthy fruit, but its oil is also beneficial for tattooed skin. Avocado essential oil retains moisture in the skin and is said to help produce collagen – two great characteristics that can benefit your inked skin!

• Rosehip

Easily absorbed by skin, rosehip essential oil has astringent properties that help brighten the skin and tighten pores. A few drops of rosehip oil mixed with coconut oil will help make your tattoo look vibrant and bright – even if it’s already a few years old!

• Grapeseed

Grapeseed is perfect for use on all skin types. It’s commonly used in skincare products because it’s rich in vitamin C and E. Just like avocado oil, it also locks in skin moisture which will make the tattoo ink stand out.  

• Thyme

Thyme oil is commonly said to be antiseptic and antimicrobial, which means it will kill bacteria on your skin. It also has superior antioxidant properties and is even touted as a natural eczema treatment.

Essential oils to avoid using on tattoos

Unfortunately, not a lot of research has been done on essential oils that shouldn’t be used on tattoos. However, according to herbalist Vivienne Campbell, calendula infused oil may be a bit too aggressive and can irritate and aggravate the skin.  

Also, if you are allergic to certain plants and its by-products, then it’s best to avoid its essential oils as well. For example, if you have nut allergies, then you should steer clear of essential oils that are derived or extracted from nuts.

How to know if you’re allergic to essential oils

Essential oils may be natural and pure, but it doesn’t mean no one will experience adverse reactions. Sometimes people use them incorrectly, and not surprisingly, they’ll develop sensitivities to the oil.

Do a patch test

A simple patch test is often all you need to determine if you’re allergic to a particular oil. Just apply a drop or two of the oil on a hidden part of your body. Then wait 24 hours and see if there’s a reaction.

Refrain from using if you’re pregnant or nursing

Essential oils do have certain benefits, but if you’re pregnant or nursing, steer clear as some of these oils may be bad for you and your baby. As with most medications, do speak with your doctor first before applying any oil on your skin (tattooed or not).

Do not ingest

You’ll find plenty of advice online telling you it’s okay to ingest essential oils. I strongly recommend you not follow these suggestions from random strangers on the web. Simply put, some oils can be toxic and poisonous if swallowed.

Can you put essential oils on healing tattoos?

As much as possible, you should only apply essential oils to healing tattoos that are at least 3-4 days old (or when it finally stops weeping). I know some oils have powerful skin healing properties, but at the same time, some may be aggressive and can end up pulling ink out of the dermis.

That said, during the initial healing stages, i.e. while it’s still weeping, stick to proven aftercare methods. Clean the area about 2-3 times a day, and apply healing ointment like Aquaphor or A+D. Once it starts scabbing, you can then start applying a few drops of essential oil to the area.

Conclusion

There are certain essential oils that work great for tattoo aftercare. However, just like with most things concerning the precious ink embedded in your skin, do proceed with caution. Remember, not all essential oils are created equal, and you may need to do a bit more research (and trial and error) to find the best essential oil which will make your tattoo stand out!

But first, what exactly is cocoa butter?

This is where cocoa butter comes from (Photo by Ly Le Minh)

Cocoa butter, also known as chocolate fat and Theobroma oil, is butter extracted from cocoa beans. The beans go through several processes before cocoa butter is finally extracted. It’s fermented, dried, roasted, and finally, pressed, to separate the butter from non-fat cocoa solids. The solids are then ground down to make cocoa powder.

It’s a key ingredient in chocolate

Cocoa butter along with cocoa powder is used to make all kinds of chocolate – dark, milk, white, etc. Of course, sugar, milk and other ingredients will eventually be added to the mix for flavour. But these two (cocoa butter + powder) are the main stars of our favourite chocolate desserts.

Of course, eating too much (processed) chocolate is unhealthy. But in its pure form, cocoa is actually rich in minerals like iron, magnesium, and potassium, which is good for vascular health.  

It smells and tastes heavenly

Raw cocoa butter tastes and smells faintly like dark chocolate. It’s very much edible, so you can eat it on its own or add it as an ingredient to various foods. Just so you know, cocoa contains a significant amount of flavanols and polyphenols, which makes it a high-antioxidant food. What this basically means is that cocoa is good for your body, inside and outside.

It’s used in many skincare products

Cocoa butter isn’t just meant to be eaten. It’s also used as an ingredient in various skincare and beauty products. Yes, that’s right – cocoa butter has a ton of benefits when eaten as a snack AND when applied topically to the skin.

Cocoa butter has a buttery smooth texture. This means it’s pretty easy to apply on skin – your fingers are going to glide right over! Thanks to its emollient properties, it’s also ultra-hydrating. So, it’s a great natural moisturiser that, coincidentally, won’t break the bank.

Now, if you think cocoa butter’s skin healing and moisturising properties are but a new discovery, you’re mistaken. The ancient Aztecs and Mayans have been using cocoa and its by-products for more than 3000 years! So, it’s definitely been around the block and has moisturised countless human skins – and tattoos – over many centuries!  

Cocoa vs cacao: what’s the difference?

These terms are often used interchangeably. But really, they refer to the same thing – the seeds of Theobroma cacao tree, a.k.a. cocoa tree. However, there is an important distinction here:

Cacao refers to raw or unroasted beans, while cocoa refers to the roasted kind.

How is cocoa butter made?

If you want to know how you can make cocoa butter, here’s a video showing you every step of the process:

Can you put cocoa butter on new tattoos? 

As you’ve learned in the previous section, cocoa butter is amazing. Not only does it smell and taste good, but it also has a ton of healing properties that make it an ideal skin moisturiser.

However, to answer the question, no, cocoa butter shouldn’t be used on fresh, weeping tattoos. This is because when the tattoo is still weeping, it means that the tattoo needle puncture holes are still open. So, if you put some cocoa butter on the area, it may penetrate the wound and cause an infection.

Now, you’re probably wondering why this is the case if cocoa butter is 100% natural. Well, the answer lies in the fact that cocoa is a comedogenic butter, so it can clog up pores and cause irritation to the area.

Fresh, weeping tattoos are at its most vulnerable – you want to avoid contact with anything that isn’t 100% sterile. This is because tattoos are technically open wounds – you want to keep the area clean and primed for optimal healing.

We recommend you use a healing ointment (like Aquaphor or A&D) instead during the first 2-3 days. Check out this guide on how to use Aquaphor on a new tattoo.

However, cocoa butter is safe to apply on a new tattoo as soon as it stops weeping and you see scabs starting to form.

In fact, some users say cocoa butter helped reduce their scabs, and absolutely minimised the peeling and even the itching! Of course, your mileage may vary, but here’s to hoping you get the same positive result as well!  

Here’s why cocoa butter works great on non-weeping, healed tattoos

More cacao fruits (Photo by Alexandre Brondino)

It’s a natural moisturiser

Just like coconut oil, cocoa butter is also a natural moisturiser. It seals in moisture on the skin pretty effectively. It’s also great for hydrating dry skin thanks to its rich creamy consistency. And as you probably already know, the better moisturised your skin is, the better your tattoo is going to look!

Reduces appearance of thick scabs

Scabs are normal for healing tattoos. But by using cocoa butter, the skin is properly hydrated so the scabs are kept to a minimum, if at all. That said, a thin application of cocoa butter on tattoos will be absorbed into the skin, which makes it more supple and less prone to cracks.

Helps minimise tattoo itching

Tattoo itching can either be really mild or extremely crazy. Thankfully, with cocoa butter, the chances of your tattoo itching like crazy is significantly reduced. This is because the tattooed area won’t be irritated and will instead be well-moisturised. This translates to a far less itchy, healing tattoo.

Helps with tattoo healing

Cocoa butter has anti-inflammatory properties. So, in terms of a healing tattoo, it can help the skin recover quickly since it can reduce swelling and inflammation. Also, since scabs and peeling skin are minimised, then it makes the tattoo healing process go much faster.

It has powerful anti-aging properties

Cocoa butter is rich in healthy fatty acids as well as Vitamins E and K. These are components that help combat – or at least, delay – the appearance of ageing skin. Cocoa butter is often touted as an effective stretch mark remover.

In theory, the butter is supposed to ‘cover’ up the gaps in skin, pretty much like tiles and grout – with skin as the tiles and cocoa butter as grout. Essentially, when the gaps are ‘filled out’, the skin will look smoother and younger.

The best cocoa butter for tattoos

For unhealed tattoos (past the weeping stage), the best kind of cocoa butter to use would be the organic and unrefined kind. It would be naturally yellowish in colour and will have a distinct chocolatey smell. If you see cocoa butters marketed as ‘unrefined’ but are snow-white in colour and has no smell, then chances are it’s not truly unrefined.

Our #1 pick:

There are plenty of ‘certified, organic, raw, unrefined, pure’ cocoa butter online. But we like The Soapery’s version best:

A 500g tub only costs a little over 10 quid (click on the image for current pricing). The butter is extracted by pressing only, so you’re assured no nasty chemicals are added to the final product. As you’d expect, this smells naturally like chocolate since no fragrances are added to the butter.

In addition to being perfect for use on both healing and healed tattoos, this food-grade butter is also perfect for use in making chocolates and other delicious cocoa-based recipes! You can also use this as a base ingredient to make your own homemade body butter.

Our #2 pick:

If you like using commercial products with a proven track record, check out Palmer’s Cocoa Butter Fragrance-Free Moisturising Lotion.

It’s hypoallergenic and will work great on sensitive skin, including those with dry and eczema-prone skin. The 24-hour moisture formula is also a huge bonus. This means a once-a-day application is all that’s needed to keep your tattoo moisturised throughout the day and night!

Who shouldn’t use cocoa butter?

Cocoa butter is great for both healing (as long as it’s no longer weeping) and fully healed tattoos. However, it’s a pretty thick butter and thus may not be ideal for some people.

For instance, if you have oily skin and you’re acne-prone, then cocoa butter may cause an acne breakout. When you have a healing tattoo, the last thing you want to happen is for acne to destroy your tattoo’s design!

Also, if you’ve got a condition known as ‘chicken skin’ or keratosis pilaris, then cocoa butter may not be ideal for you as well. This is because heavy butter is a well-known comedogenic and can clog your pores big-time. In addition to developing more tiny, itchy bumps on your skin, you may also experience folliculitis (inflammation of hair follicles).

While cocoa allergies are pretty rare, there are still some people who are allergic, or at least, sensitive to cocoa. To ensure you’re not allergic to the butter, do a quick patch test on non-tattooed skin. Wait 24 hours and see if you get an allergic reaction.

If you are allergic to cocoa butter, we recommend you check out After Inked Vegan Tattoo Aftercare Lotion instead. It’s made with natural ingredients like grapeseed oil, shea butter, and jojoba oil, so your tattoo’s going to look very nice as well!

Will cocoa butter fade tattoos?

If applied on weeping tattoos, then yes, cocoa butter may draw out some of the ink and cause the tattoo to fade prematurely. However, if applied to well-healed tattoos, then no, cocoa butter won’t fade the ink. Quite the contrary, thanks to its superior moisturising properties, the butter will make the skin look soft and supple. This, in turn, will make the tattoo look great as well!

Conclusion

Cocoa butter on fresh, bleeding tattoos can compromise the area and delay the healing process. However, once the puncture wounds start to close up and the tattoo stops oozing plasma, then cocoa butter gets a green ‘GO!’ signal from us. To conclude, cocoa butter is a natural moisturiser with healing properties that’s been proven to minimise scabbing, peeling and itching on new tattoos.